I didn't clean or lube the pistol prior to shooting. I only swapped the small backstrap for the medium sized one. The backstrap roll pin is pretty long, longer than the shank on my Starrett 1/16" punch. Also, the diameter is 2mm (5/64"), in between 1/16 and 3/32". I had to be careful not to pound the 1/16" punch into the center of the pin. I ended up using a broken 5/64 drill bit (the flat side) and a ball peen hammer to tap it the rest of the way out.
First I tested each magazine with a single round to ensure it would lock back on empty. Then I tried to induce a limp-wristing failure with the 115gr. I figured a one-finger grip, relaxed wrist, and light practice load would give me the best chance at a failure. I shot each magazine loaded with five rounds in this way. I had zero failures.
Reloads are relatively easy. The top of the magazine is narrow with a long taper, and there's no over-insertion shelf like on the Glock to get hung up. The backstrap acts like a Glock grip plug, a ramp that guides the rear of the magazine into the well. The mags eject very positively, springing from the gun even when held horizontal at slide lock. The gun will "auto-forward" the slide if you slam the mag in hard enough at the right angle, but I couldn't do it consistently. I prefer the Opposing Forces Reload method anyway. It's not as easy as it could be sue to the stiffness of the slide release though. The mag release is also still pretty stiff, but the location under thumb makes it easy to get a solid press. The mag popped free every time I went for the button. I did have a few failures to lock back on empty during the accuracy tests when my thumb would touch the slide release. I think it's because I using a weaker grip to minimize sight movement, because outside of shooting groups, I didn't have any issues.
Next I moved the target back to 25, 50, and 75 feet and shot 5-shot groups unsupported with all four ammo types. Shooting for maximum accuracy, and squeezing the trigger as slowly as I could, the trigger felt heavier than during dryfire. I'm sure someone will make a heavier set of trigger springs to lighten the break weight a la Glock. Point of aim for the 25 and 50 foot groups was the bulls eye. I was having trouble seeing the red dot at 75', so I used a 6 o'clock hold. Here they are below.
25' Groups |
50' Groups |
75' Groups |
25' Rapid |
15' One-Handed |
Speaking of changes, there's not much else I can think to change. I plan to do a full detail strip and cleaning. While I'm at it, I'm going to see if I can smooth out the trigger interface surfaces a bit as well as the mag and slide releases. I also want to see if there's enough frame material to do "Agency" cuts in the frame. Having access to a vertical mill is awesome.
While it's too soon to make any conclusion about reliability and durability, I'm pretty confident that CZ has made a winner. While I won't be selling my Glocks and Glock paraphernalia, I doubt I'll be buying any more.
CZ made it a point that the P-10C was compatible with holsters for "popular" handguns, namely the Glock 19. I've amassed quite a few Glock holsters and unfortunately, only a few would adequately secure the P-10C.
Yes:
TR Holsters IWB G17 w/ TLR
TR Holsters RTI w/ Lvl II Retention for G17 w/ RMR and X300U-A/B
Yes with issues:
Raven Concealment Eidolon G19- Friction fit only, doesn't "click" into place
JM Custom IWB G19 - Tight, had to back off the retention screw
No:
Priority-1 IWB G19
Raven Concealment Vanguard II Glock
Comp-Tac Flatline G19
Guncraft Cloak G19
Guncraft Cloak Mod2 G19
G-Code OSL for G17 w/ X300U-B
Thanks for nice post...
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