Sage Dynamics Defensive Handgun Fundamentals - Day 1

F**K North Carolina in August!  It was HOT.  Highs in the low 90's with humidity hovering around 70%.  I brought a small cooler with 6, 20oz bottles of water and 2, 12oz bottles of orange juice.  I was out by lunch.  Fortunately there were more experienced students who let me raid their Yeti.  I was the least experienced shooter.  Our class of 10 had 1 competition shooter, 6 instructors, and 3 like myself, what I'd call defensive minded citizens.  I arrived at 8:45.  People were milling about, loading magazines, shooting the breeze, and setting up equipment.  Speaking of equipment other than a stock XD and a lightly customized CZ 75,  every other student had an Agency Arms Glock.  Having never fondled one myself, I was impressed, and my "custom"(DIY) Glock 19 looked crude by comparison.  At 9:00am, Aaron addressed the class.  He introduced himself and went over the safety rules.  He has a common sense approach to range safety that are much more nuanced versions of the 4 safety rules we know and love.  He runs a "Hot" range.

Class Intro

Aaron paces the class very well.  He thoroughly dissects a topic, but doesn't spend any more time than he needs to on it.  In fact, the above photo is the only one I had time to get before the class started.  Being a fundamentals course, Aaron covered Grip, Sight Alignment, Sight Picture, Stance, and Trigger Control.  These topics have been discussed ad nauseam, but he has a way of breaking them down so they are not just easily understood, but easily applied.  An example was how he described gripping the gun like you're crushing a beer can.  Not just the pressure, but the application of force at each finger.  Once this "clicked" for me, I noticed my groups tightening up.  I still have to be conscious of my grip, but now I know what to work on at home.

Aaron stresses accuracy, but not precision shooting in the traditional sense.  He spent a good deal of time going over anatomy, mainly that which is critical for life function.  Instead of focusing on shooting tight 1 hole groups, Aaron strives for precise targeting of vital anatomy.  Not just head shots, but targeting specific regions of the brain that guarantee instant incapacitation.  Vital organs in the chest and certain regions of the pelvis were also described.  Since we are targeting specific regions inside of a 3 dimensional threat, we used 3D cardboard targets.  We would set them up facing directly toward us, from the side, and at various angles.  This acclimated us to points of aim that you can't replicate on a 2D target.  Later we attached cardboard arms depicting knives or handguns.

Being defensively minded, we began our shooting drills issuing verbal commands.  It felt silly at first, but after a few evolutions we found ourselves genuinely screaming at the cardboard target to "DROP THE KNIFE" or GET THE F**K BACK!  We were not told what to say, just suggestions to keep it simple and address the most important issue first ie:  If a guy with a knife is advancing from 25 feet away, "STOP, DROP THE KNIFE" would be prudent since he has to get closer to use the knife on you.

After lunch, we were introduced to the hot rocks that had been baking in the sun all day.  We shot from kneeling positions, moving to supine and fetal.  I'm glad I brought my knee pads.  We learned to fight as we recovered from the fetal, to supine, to kneeling, to standing positions.  A double stack handgun is especially handy for this, though even my 15 rounders were barely lasting through the drill.  17 or even 20 rounders are on my shopping list.

By 4pm I was beat.  While the drills aren't that physically demanding, the constant mental focus and especially the heat took their toll. Every time we stopped to top off our mags, everyone sucked down a bottle of water and had a handful of jerky, pretzels, chips, crackers, energy bars, etc.  Staying hydrated is critical to staving off mental fatigue in the heat, and a few bits of food to replenish electrolytes lost to sweat meant they were in much better condition to learn than I was.  It's nearly 10pm, and I still have a mild headache even after drinking nearly a gallon of water.  Tomorrow morning I will pick up a case of water, an 8 pack of Gatorade, and assorted snacks.

Sage Dynamics Defensive Handgun I - Day 2

Sage Dynamics Defensive Handgun Fundamentals Class Preview

My Training Background:

Or lack thereof.  I have zero law enforcement or military training.  I took the required NC CCW Course which consisted of 8 hours of classroom instruction and a 40 round qualification shoot in which we had to put at least 20 of the rounds anywhere on an NRA B-27 target at 15 feet.  I have attend a 4-hour pistol fundamentals course at Sig Academy that coincided with some business travel.  We mainly covered draws and reloads from the belt on steel targets at ranges from 5 to 15 yards.  I have also attended my local range's CCW classes.  These are 3-hour classes that are mostly like IDPA practice sessions.  IDPA cardboard targets, blue barrels as "cover", draws and reloads from concealment, close compression shooting, etc at an indoor range.  Not a bad deal for $75 and 100 rounds of ammo.  I don't consider any of these to be training so much as guided practice.

When I first started shooting 15 years ago, I had made it my mission to attend a weekend class at Gunsite and train with the late Jeff Cooper.  However with money and time in short supply I never got that chance before he passed.  However, my research into Gunsite and its founder led me to other professionals like Clint Smith, Chris Costa, and Travis Haley.  I learned what I could from their DVDs.  I enjoyed Smith's highly quotable "Clint-isms" and his KISS methods were grounded in reality.  Regarding tactical reloads: "Why am I taking the gun apart, that has already saved my life, and why am I going to start c*ck-juggling magazines with a heart rate of 160, 70, 80, and auditory exclusion and my eyes are watering and I've got my Mickey Mouse underwear and my Ho Chi Minh flip-flops on, I'm not exactly sure that I wanna be taking stuff apart."  My introduction to Chris Costa and Travis Haley were through Magpul's (I admit I am a Magpul fanboy) Art of the Defensive Handgun/Rifle/Shotgun DVD's  The common denominator of these guys was that they never demonstrated a technique with explaining the reasons for it.  They demonstrated more common but possibly less effective techniques and encouraged students to use what worked best for them.  Haley's rule to choose a technique that works 95% of the time and raise it to 99.99% is one that I incorporated into my practice.

Enter Aaron Cowan:

A few years back I stumbled upon a small YouTube channel while looking for gun videos.  I almost didn't make it past the first 10 seconds of the video.  A montage of highly modified handguns and AR-15's being prepped to heavy metal, the ubiquitous opening of a tacticool bro-tuber.  A heavily muscled man with a shaved head and sunglasses, and tattoos festooning his arms.  "Just another wannabe James Yeager", I thought, "God I hate the internet sometimes".  As I was about to click on the "one weird trick" to flatten my belly, he spoke.  I few hours later I had watched every video on the channel and was on the website looking for training classes in my area or near any locations I would be visiting.  My travel schedule would not allow it, so in the meantime, I eagerly waited for each new video.  I read the Hagakure.  I even bought his eBook, a novel about an assassin turned covert operative. Finally, the stars aligned this year.  I had a break in my travel schedule and the Defensive Handgun class was a few hours away.  More importantly, I got the okay from my wife.  I eagerly signed up and sent my payment.  I received an email a few days later with confirmation and a course packet, containing the course syllabus, location, and required and recommended equipment.  I sent a response email with a few questions regarding my front sight choice with an RMR, and my holster choice.  I received a response a few days later from the Sage himself.

In a few days I will be embarking to Carthage, NC for Sage Dynamic's 2-day defensive handgun course.  It is the only stop of Sage Dynamics in North Carolina each year, about 3 hours from my home near Charlotte.

What I'm bringing:

,A hopefully, unbiased and open mind.  On the gun side, I will bring 2, Glock 19's and 6, 15-round mags.  My primary is a 4th gen Glock 19 with a Unity Tactical Atom Slide, Trijicon RMR, Apex Trigger, and DIY frame mods.  Undercut, accelerator cuts, and stipple job.  My backup is another 4th Gen G19, with Agency Trigger, threaded barrel, rasied sights, and DIY stipple job.  I may also bring my G26.  Primary holster and mag carriers are from Guncraft.  Backup holster and mag carriers are form a small local outfit called Priority 1.  They are very simillar to Guncraft for about half the price and a 2-3 day lead time.  2 Ares Gear Aegis Belts, Vertex khakis I got on clearance, spare factory parts, cleaning kits, and 1000 rounds of Winchester bulk 9mm round out my gear.  I plan to run the class with all my EDC gear, Spyderco Delica 4, Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA, in CCW configuration.  Holsters and mags in the appendix position under t-shirt.  It's gonna be hot and humid as North Carolina summers often are with the constant threat of pop-up showers and t-storms.  Knowing that the intensity of this course will surpass anything I've done before I'm also packing a set of gloves and volleyball kneepads.  Ever slam your knee down on a shell casing?  I don't want to go at half speed or limp through the day just to hold onto my "man card".

Class Equipment Layout

Training Expectations and Goals:

I will be using this as an opportunity to learn as much as I can and find out how good I really am.  I consider myself a pretty good shooter, but without the crucible of a real, life threatening encounter, I have no reference other than how I perform in training under stress.  I hope to have a few myths or preconceptions dispelled, and finally to test and review my equipment choices.  I will have an after action review and report my equipment findings shortly after.  Until then...

-Carry On

Sage Dynamics Defensive Handgun Fundamentals - Day 1

Unity Tactical Atom Slide for 4th Gen Glock 19

This is my Glock.  There are many like it...

Glock 19, ATOM Slide, Trijicon RM06 

This is a difficult review to write.  It's less of a review as much as a story.  My experience with the Unity Tactical Atom slide has been a two-sided affair.  Do you like 1911's?  Do you enjoy patiently fitting and troubleshooting parts?  Can you fit a 1911 barrel?  Do you have a steady hand with a file and access to a mill or machine shop?  I do.  That's why even though it has been the most frustrating thing I've ever put on my Glock, I'm glad for the experience.

My EDC is a Gen4 Glock 19 MOS.  The trigger is from Apex, the connector a Ghost 3.5 Evo.  A Glockmeister grip plug, Vickers mag release, and OEM extended slide release round out the new parts.  All springs are factory weight.  I swapped the factory craptastic sights with a raised set from Dawson Precision.  I mounted my Burris Fastfire 3 on the slide with the provided adapter plate.  One 350 round range trip confirmed 2 things.  Glocks are boringly reliable, and I'm really starting to like the red dot.  I knew I'd need a lot of practice to be able to find the dot as quickly as my irons out of the holster, but the increased hit probability at 25 yards and speed of follow up shots past 7 yards made me realize the red dot would stay.  I had doubts about the Burris unit surviving an upcoming Sage Dynamics Handgun course.  Would it survive 1000+ rounds, being used to rack the slide one-handed.  I also noticed the rear sight kept grabbing my attention away from the target.  I thought about sending my other G19 slide to Agency Arms ($$$!) or AETI, but knew I would'nt get it back before the class.  I knew of the Unity Atom slide, but they were sold out at every online retailer.  Then I happened to find one on Gunbroker and jumped on it.

ATOM w/ RM07 - Front sight completely blended with background

On paper it sounds perfect.  17-4 stainless, interchangeable optic plates, a la MOS, rear sight forward of the optic, front serrations, raised sights, and the same weight as a factory slide with an RMR mounted.  When I received the slide all was right in the world.  I wanted black, knowing that the FDE finish would wear as badly as my FNX 45 Tactical, but since I planned to use this at a Sage Dynamics Handgun course, I knew that no pistol would come though without a few battle scars.  Plus FDE was all they had left.  The sights were perfectly centered.  My factory barrel and slide internals all went in without a hitch.  I installed the slide on the frame and pulled the slide to the rear.  It stayed back. Locked open about 1/4 inch from fully to the rear, stuck in both directions.  The slide stop was not engaged in the notch.  The slide was simply stuck.  There was no movement in the barrel either.  Shit.

I banged on the rear of the slide and it shot forward.  I removed the slide inspecting the barrel lugs and locking block for debris or wear.  There was nothing out of the ordinary.  The top of the slide however had a pronounced wear line on the front of the hood.  The barrel was not dropping down far enough and as the slide retracted, it was wedging the barrel between it and the locking block.  I tried the slide on my other non-MOS Glock 19, also a Gen 4 and the slide hung up but didn't get stuck.  It was plenty loose on my G26.  I tried swapping barrels, and locking blocks with the same results.  So either the slide was out of spec, or Glocks tolerances are looser than an 1973 MG.

Wear on barrel hood from contact with slide

I called Unity Tactical and described the problem.  They said the slide might be out of spec and I could send it to them.  The problem was, I had already sold my MOS slide to buy the Atom, so my RMR would be out of commission for the Sage Dynamics course in 2 weeks.  There also wasn't enough time to have my other G19 slide sent out for milling.  I decided to put my experience with building 1911's to the test.  I broke out the calipers and took some measurements.  The top of the Atom slide was 0.012" thicker than the Glock slide.  I popped into work on the weekend and set the Atom in the jaws of our mill.  The mill is a 3000 lbs monster with computer controlled axis.  I programmed the mill to remove a pocket in the slide.  I didn't not want to touch the barrel lockup area and effect the vertical orientation of the barrel.  I set the depth to 0.015" and started the program.  When it was done I reinstalled the barrel and tested it.  The slide moved fully to the rear, but there was almost no wiggle in the barrel.  Normally, it rattles around when locked to the rear.  I mounted the slide again and took off another 0.010".  Success!  The barrel locked up as tightly as before, with as much factory wiggle as my other G19 when locked open.  While I was there, I mounted my frame and milled accelerator cuts for my support thumbs.  I had plans for the frame as well

Milled pocket for barrel clearance

At home I mounted the RMR to the Atom mounting plate without issue.  Then I tried to get the adapter plate on the slide.  It wouldn't fit.  Crap.  I removed the RMR and stuck the plate in the freezer for an hour but I still couldn't get it started on the slide.  No review or video I'd seen had this problem.  Once again my 1911 skills were called up.  I began filing the angled front and rear sections of the plate with a #2 swiss file.  I was careful to remove metal from both ends to keep the left side retaining screw hole centered. When the plate would barely start, I switched to a fine arkansas stone and finally a ceramic x-fine stone.  The plate slipped in smoothly needing just a light tap from a plastic hammer to seat.

Finally I could actually shoot the thing.  Dry-fire all evening revealed no problems.  Having the rear buis in front of the RMR really helped me stay focused on the target, and the black front no longer distracting me like the fiber optic had on the MOS slide.  The next morning, I lubed everything up with Slip EWL and packed up for the range, bringing a 350 round box of Blazer Brass.  I loaded up a mag and shot a 5 round group at a 6" Shoot-N-C target at 25'.  2 clicks left and one click down were all that was needed.  5 more rounds.  The irons were spot on.  Confident, I moved the target back to 25 yards.  One shot then click...  The slide was just slightly out of battery.  Probably need to break it in I thought.  I pulled the slide back to reset the trigger.  It sounded and felt like someone had thrown sand into the action.  I disassembled the gun, finding no debris.  Maybe a brass shaving fell out when I stripped it.  I reassembled the gun and racked the slide.  It chugged into battery.  I fired a round, the slide seems to recoil in slow motion and empty brass barely made it a few inches out of the slide, which was once again out of battery.  I disassembled the gun again and saw the tell-tale marks on the disconnector cam lobe on the slide.  I felt the connector for a burr and felt a slight bump under my fingernail.  I've used Ghost connectors in all my Glocks with no problems.  This particular one had a slight gouge in the disconnector lug.  Dryfire had not been enough to reveal it, but the violence of live ammo peened the gouge, raising a burr that was now eating into my $500 slide!  I felt the eyes of everyone one on the range, pitying a man with an unreliable gun, a Glock no less, the same look parents give when someones child is having a tantrum in public.  I was a bad parent with a spoiled child.

Gouges on connector cam lobe

Once home, I dove into 1911 troubleshooting mode.  I popped a different Ghost connector in the frame.  I broke out my trusty #2 file and began addressing the drag marks from the slide.  I didn't remove them completely as I didn't want to disable the disconnector, just smoothed them out.  I grabbed a 600 grit sanding stick and polished the now unfinished stainless.  I reassembled the gun, racking the action with as much force as I could muster.  While it wasn't glass smooth, the gritty feeling was gone.  I headed back to the range.  I fired the remaining 300+ rounds of Blazer Brass.  Success! Relief! Vindication! All was well...

But not perfect.  I have a few niggles about the slide.  Ignoring the issues I had, the FDE PVD coating is not as robust as I'd like, though this is not unexpected.  After just a few draws from my Guncraft Cloak kydex holster, the finish has rubbed off the corner of the muzzle, and a wear line is forming below the extractor.  It is no where near as tough as Tenifer, Melonite, DLC, Nitride, etc.  The front serrations are too close to the muzzle in my opinion and I wish they had cut 1 or 2 more lines.  The sides of the adapter plate are cut at an angle to match the profile of the slide, but since the RMR is wider than the slide, they should have left them square and added matching serrations, like on Glocks MOS plate, to provide more support for the RMR.  The stainless steel bottom cover provided for the RMR had very sharp corners for the RMR side cutouts.  I broke the corners with a Dremel and a chainsaw stone to prevent cutting my fingers on it.  The front sight is not serrated and glare makes it hard to find in certain lighting.

RMR gap due to slide bevel

Holster Wear

As for the issues I experienced, maybe I got a lemon.  Maybe Gen4 Glock tolerances are looser than Gen3?  Unity Tactical was more than willing to fix the problem for me, but I didn't want to loose time shipping the slide, or going through the hassle of shipping my frame with it.

I leave for Sage Dynamics 2-Day Defensive Handgun class this weekend.  If the slide makes it through, I'm going to cut additional front serrations and send the slide off for DLC re-finishing at a local metal coating company.  All told I'll have nearly $500 in the slide, including the $275 I got back when I sold the factory MOS slide.  For $800 I could have sent my factory slide to Agency Arms, or AETI for about $500 and had the RMR cuts, front serrations, and a refinish job done.

Glock 19, ATOM Slide, Trijicon RM06

Was it worth it?  To me yes.  I'm currently on my 4th 1911 project, a Caspian 9mm CCO.  I enjoy the challenge of building a 1911, fitting every part as perfectly as possible.  This is NOT something you should experience with a Glock, nor would I want to.  A Glock should just work.  But I appreciate a learning experience no matter how frustrating the lesson.  My Glock now has something that I thought only a 1911 or my M1 Garand could have.  My Glock has a soul, a personality.  Mine.  The stipple job was done for my hands.  The accelerator cuts are positioned and angled for my thumbs.  The trigger bar and connector angles were stoned and polished by me.  I radiused and polished the striker safety plunger.  Even the Atom slide has my handiwork in it.  This is my Glock.  There are many like it, but this one is mine.

-Carry On.

Update - The slide made it through the Sage Dynamics Defensive Handgun 2-day class with zero problems.  This will definitely be my EDC.  I did have a problem with the RMR dot turning off but that's a known issue that was fixed with some electrical tape.  The dot held zero all day and I was able to get hits at 25 yards with the irons.  I will probably replace the front sight with a serrated green fiber one from Dawson, as the glare off the front ramp makes it hard to make out.  

10-8 and Dawson Precision Fiber Optic Sights Review

Sights are a very subjective thing.  What works for me won't necessarily work for everyone.  It is only through trial and error and experimentation that we find what works for each of us.  Unfortunately, money is a limited resource.  Time is a finite resource.  You can barter your time for money, but you can't buy time.  With that in mind, here are my observations on my preferred sights on a defensive handgun, specifically the Glock 19.  I'm 34 years old, right eye/hand dominant, and have 20/30 vision with astigmatism and wear glasses.

In a high stress scenario, the evidence says that I will focus on the threat.  This is the product of evolution and cannot be undone in our species in our lifetime.  This is why dots exist.  To help us break through our instinct to focus on the threat and deliver accurate fire.

After experimenting with 3 dots, 2 dots, single dot, and no dot, I've found the best combo for me is to have a completely black rear sight with a single dot up front.  I shoot with both eyes open.  With a 3 dot setup, there can be up to 6 dots in my peripheral vision.  I can figure out which one is the front sight in a fraction of a second, but that's how much time it can take to end a gunfight, and I don't want to give anything up.  With a single dot, when I try to snap my focus back to the front sight, I don't have rear dots competing for my attention.

My favorite rear sight is from 10-8 Performance.  The rear face is serrated to reduce glare and the sight body features a 90 degree ledge for one-handed slide manipulation.  It is available with either a .140" or .156" wide notch width, and the bottom of the notch is a U-shape.  The U combined with my preferred .140" width makes it easier for me to locate the dot if I happen to present the muzzle a bit low.  They are also Melonited which is a plus for me.  I often CCW without an undershirt here in the south.  I've never seen so much as a speck of rust on these sights even as they ride against my belly in the heat of summer.  Due to the Melonite, the outer surface is extremely hard.  I've used these sights in my Glocks, M&Ps, 1911, and Walther PPQ.  Everytime I've had to remove a little material with a diamond file.

10-8 Rear

10-8 Rear - Side

10-8 Rear & 10-8 Front

Up front, I prefer Dawson Precision Fiber Optic .125" wide sights with a green rod.  In low light, red is the first color to disappear, followed by orange, yellow, green, and blue.  That's why everything takes a blue tone when the lights go out.  Now red is great if it is the illumination source like on an illuminated optic or laser, but both of those devices are bringing their own red light to the party.  I prefer the .125" width as opposed to .100" or .110" for durability.  .125" means there is more metal surrounding the holes that must be drilled for the fiber rod.  These are finished in black oxide which isn't as rust proof as Melonite, but since they are protected by the holster and never touch my skin I'm not too worried, and have had no evidence of rust.  Then again, I don't open carry in the rain, nor do I live near the coast.  Also, black oxide is a nice deep flat black as opposed to the slight grey-ish tint of Melonite.  Dawson offers their front sights in pretty much any height you need and include the nut driver tool.

Dawson Front F/O

Dawson Front F/O - Serrated Face

Dawson Front F/O - Side

Dawson RMR Height F/O Front & Rear

Dawson Tools Included

I have a .250 black sight that I use as a temporary front sight.  I get my rear sight adjusted for windage with a $60 sight pusher.  Using the sight correction calculator at Dawson Precisions sight calculator, I  can order the exact front sight to give me a zero at 25 yards.  My POA is the top edge of the sight.  With my ammo, the bullet path apexes at 25 yards, dropping about 1.5" at 50 yards.  While, I typically use the dot as my POA since I rarely expect to engage threats past 10 yards, I know I can use the top of the sight for a more precise shot if I have the opportunity.

While some may question the durability of FO sights.  A proper holster completely covers and protects the front sight.  In the worse case scenario, the rod is covered by mud/blood, or breaks, leaving you with basically a black post.  The upper portion of the blade could be dented, collapsed, or broken off at the hole, but there are usually 2 to 4 of them.  Even if they all broke off, I'd still have the lower portion of the sight to work with. At typical defensive ranges well under 25 feet, I'm confident in my ability to get hits.  Besides, they can't be less durable than the factory plastic sights.  Fiber optic rods are cheap and easily replaced with a nail clipper and lighter.  They are much brighter in daylight and are as visible as tritium in low light.  Only when it's almost too dark to ID your target do tritium lamps have the advantage.  With a weapon or handheld light (I always have a handheld light when I carry), both effectively become black sights anyways.  For these reasons I don't think tritium sights offer much advantage in low light shooting.  They're not worse though, and I probably wouldn't replace tritium if they came on the gun.  In a few years when they start to dim however...

FNX 45 - Daylight

FNX 45 - Sights in Darkness

FNX 45 - Sights w/ 30 lumens

FNX 45 - Sights w/ 100 lumens

Glock 26 - 10-8 F/O Front w/ 30 lumens

Glock 26 - 10-8 F/O Front w/ 100 lumens

As I write this, I have a Trijicon RMR on the way.  I recently purchased a Glock 19 MOS to mount my Fastfire III red dot to try it out.  While I'm still retraining my brain to focus on the target, I can definitely see an advantage in the red dot.  Enough to plunk down the money for an RM07.  If I could find one I would have just bought a Unity Atom slide but that costs as much as a new G19.  Plus with 2 guns I can John Woo to my hearts content.  Now where can I find a dozen white doves?

-Carry On

Teal Blue Bravo PDQ Ambi Bolt Release Review

One complaint I've always had with the AR platform, is the inability to retain a firing grip when  locking the bolt to the rear.  I tried the Magpul BAD lever, but having the control tab inside the trigger guard gave me the willys.  I've also had the bolt slam closed when setting the rifle down on the left side.  When searching for a lower to SBR, I saw that Aero Precision was selling lowers already milled for the PDQ Ambi Bolt Release, I was pretty stoked.  I ordered both in black and patiently waited for the call from my LGS.  Both arrived a few days later, and upon initial inspection, the PDQ seemed solid and well finished.  My main concern was the extra weight of the right side lever, and the way the port door applied additional downward pressure to it.  Would the bolt catch fail to lock back on empties?

While function testing with GI and Pmags, the bolt catch clicked up up solidly.  I wear Mechanix gloves in size large, but I still have to adjust my grip a bit to press up on the lever as it's a tad high on the receiver.  I also find it faster to just hit the paddle on the left side after inserting a fresh mag.  However, it still makes clearing the weapon, especially when prone or on the bench much easier.  While the unit works as advertised in stock form, there were still a few issues.  During live fire, I repeatedly got failures to lock back on empty, both with Gen 2 and 3 Pmags, and GI aluminum mags.  I have read reviews of the PDQ where users did not experience any problems so it may just be a combination of the parts on my rifle, but there do seem to be two design flaws that could have been ironed out prior to release.  The PDQ is nearly double the weight of the stock bolt catch, and all of that weight is pressing the bolt catch down.  The port door also adds a small but considerable amount of resistance to the lever.  You can really feel the difference when lifting the catch from inside the magwell.  So in stock form, at least on my rifle, the PDQ is a disappointment.

Of course, I'm not one to give up that easily.  I figured the problem was the extra mass of the lever, and the interference from the port door.  Examining the PDQ, the right side lever is square in profile, and the top edge drags against the port door.  The "ping pong" is also larger than it needs to be.  I figured I could cut off both sides of the ping pong paddle, reduce the thickness of the lever, and cut an angle to remove the sharp edge .  Thinning out the lever also meant it  would contacting the port door farther away from the hinge point, reducing its leverage.  I clamped it into my bench vise and started work.  I used a cutoff wheel in my Dremel to get the basic shape, followed by a bastard file, #2 swiss file, and 200 grit sandpaper to clean up the rough edges.  My concerns that this was a MIM part faded quickly as the PDQ cut like any other piece of steel.  I roughed up the bare metal with some steel wool and shot it with two quick coats of flat black engine block enamel that I had on hand.  Here it is installed.

While the lever still slides against the port door, it moves much more smoothly and with less resistance than before.  It still sticks out further than I'd like, but I've yet to snag it on anything.  While it looks flimsy,  it's no thinner than the thinnest part of the lever where it exits the receiver.  I can still get excellent purchase on the lever in both directions.  It functions perfectly now with both my 16" and 11.5" upper and all mags.  Overall I'm happy with the lever, but only after performing a pretty extensive modification.  If Teal Blue Bravo ever comes out with a new version, I hope it's smaller and hugs the receiver more closely.  Until then, unless you're patient with a file, stick with the Magpul offering.

-Carry On